Growing up in Victoria, I always knew Chinatown was there. I’d grab White Rabbit candy from Quonley’s Market, never wondering why this little corner of the city looked and felt so different. Only later did I learn just how many stories those narrow alleys and red-brick buildings held.
Chinatown began with a gold rush—thousands of Chinese men, already seasoned from working in California, came north chasing opportunity. Two merchants from San Francisco saw the writing on the wall and snapped up land near Cormorant Street (now Pandora Avenue), creating what would grow into Canada’s oldest Chinatown.
At first it was a collection of shacks and tents, but it didn’t stay that way for long. Shops, homes, and even factories sprang up. People built lives, sent money home, and laid the groundwork for a community that would shape Victoria forever.
Not everyone was happy about it. The city tried to isolate the neighbourhood—literally—by separating it with a garbage-filled ravine. When that didn’t work, systemic racism took over. Laws were passed to keep Chinese families from settling long-term. Taxes were imposed, immigration blocked. Still, the community held strong.
Behind those storefronts were entire worlds—brothels, opium dens and gambling rooms all connected by hidden stairways, back alleys and secret rooftops. Fan Tan Alley, now home to trendy shops and selfie-takers, was the heartbeat of a thriving illegal and underground economy.
For a while, Chinatown was vibrant and full of life; but as industry moved to larger cities and immigration bans took their toll, the population dwindled. Businesses closed. Families left, and the area fell into neglect. By the early '70s, it had shrunk to a single block, with locals warned to steer clear.
Then something changed.
In the late 20th century, the city began to recognize the cultural and historical value of Chinatown. Restoration began with the Gate of Harmonious Interest, and soon streetlamps, sidewalks, and storefronts were refreshed. Chinatown was named a National Historic Site and focused upon the stories of those pioneers who came, built, and endured were finally acknowledged.
Today, Chinatown is small but mighty. You can still find authentic Chinese cuisine, herbal shops, and a museum that tells the story of those who built this neighbourhood from the ground up. The energy has shifted, but the soul remains. Fan Tan Alley still twists and turns like a mystery novel, inviting you to step back in time.
Want the full story? Join a HIDDEN VICTORIA walking tour. You’ll learn about North America’s oldest Chinese-run business, peek behind shopfronts, and discover how resilience, family, and grit kept this neighbourhood alive when everything else tried to push it out.
Chinatown isn’t just a historic district. It’s living proof that a community, no matter how small or challenged, can leave a legacy that lasts.