At the corner of Belleville and Douglas streets, located next to the Royal BC Museum is a quiet and beautiful green space that’s home to over a dozen towering totem poles, and a traditional indigenous longhouse.
It’s called Thunderbird Park: and it’s much more than a small corner containing a collection of weathered totem poles—it’s a culturally significant landmark that honours the artistry, stories, and resilience of British Columbia’s First Peoples.
Named for the powerful, supernatural bird-like figure prominent in the mythology and folklore of North American Indigenous peoples, Thunderbird Park was established in 1941 by The Provincial Museum (today’s Royal BC Museum) as a way to preserve and showcase Indigenous totem poles that were, at the time, in danger of being lost to weathering and neglect in remote coastal villages.
At the time, the museum recognized the importance of safeguarding these monumental works, not just as artifacts, but also as living expressions of Indigenous culture. Each totem tells a story of family lineage, supernatural beings, clan history, or some other important or significant event. Once the park opened, it quickly became an open-air gallery where the public could encounter these carvings up close, and learn more about the early indigenous culture of the land we live and work on today.
The totems in the park represent a wide range of Indigenous groups from coastal British Columbia - particularly the Lekwungen (Songhees and Esquimalt) people, whose presence here stretches back more than 4,000 years. For the local Lekwungen people, Thunderbird Park rests within their territory, making it not only a showcase for art but also in recognition of their ongoing connection to this land. Other totems in the park reflect the artistry of Coast Salish carvers, as well as Haida, Kwakwaka’wakw, and Nuu-chah-nulth traditions.
In 1952, a full-scale traditional longhouse was built on the site under the guidance of renowned Kwakwaka’wakw carver and cultural leader Mungo Martin. The longhouse, known as Wawadiťła (“House of Plenty”), was one of the first traditional Indigenous structures built in an urban Canadian setting. More than a building, it became a living workshop and gathering space for carving, and the occasional ceremonial potlatch.
In the longhouse, Martin and (after his death in 1962) later generations of carvers trained apprentices, revived traditional techniques, and created new totem poles that would go on display both in the park, and around the world.
Many of the original totems that stood in Thunderbird Park have since been moved indoors to the Royal BC Museum; and in their place, replicas (also carved by local indigenous artists) have been erected in their places to ensuring the designs and stories lived on. This practice reflects a partnership between Indigenous artists and the museum: the preservation of fragile originals, coupled with the continuation of carving traditions in public view.
Today more than ever, spaces like Thunderbird Park embody the mission of The Truth and Reconciliation Commission of Canada (TRC) whose Calls to Action continue to guide national and provincial policy, and urges all Canadians to learn about and respect Indigenous histories, cultures, and rights. They bring Indigenous traditions into public view, highlight the strength of communities that survived colonization and residential schools, and provide a place for dialogue and understanding to grow into a more respectful and inclusive future for all.
So next time you visit Thunderbird Park, remember you’re not simply walking through a city park—you’re stepping into a space that carries centuries of Indigenous history, creativity, and resilience, set in the heart of British Columbia’s capital; a park that invites visitors to pause and consider not just the aesthetic beauty of the carvings, but also the deep cultural roots they represent.
Visit Thunderbird Park, plus many other historic spots in HIDDEN VICTORIA'S Iconic and Obscure walking tour. For more information on how to join one of our daily tours, CLICK HERE.